The main reason we came to Koyasan, besides staying at a shukubo, was to visit Okunoin. Okunoin (pronounced: Oku-no-in) is the largest graveyard in Japan, with over 200,000 tombstones, and is the holiest place in all of Koya. It is here that the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism, rests. It is believed that he, instead of dying, is awaiting the return of the future Buddha: Maitreya.

Koyasan is on Mount Koya and is the headquarters of the Shingon sect of Japanese Buddhism. We were fortunate enough to be able to stay at Fudou-in, a Buddhist temple, in the town. Koyasan is located in the mountains just a two-hour train ride south of Osaka. Getting to Koyasan required a ride on a rural train with a few change-overs. Eventually we got to Gokurakubashi Station and took a cable car up the mountain to our final stop. From the station we took a cab through Koyasan to our lodgings at Fudou-in.

During our time in Kinosaki Onsen we stayed at the exquisite Nishimuraya Honkan. This ryokan has numerous awards and recently was added to the Relais & Châteaux group of hotels and restaurants. The wood structure of this ryokan dates back over 150 years and the latest addition was added in 1960 by the prominent architect Masaya Hirata. From its walled exterior the ryokan doesn’t look like anything special, but once we entered into it, we realized this was an experience we would never forget.

Kinosaki is a hot springs town on the western shore of the main island of Japan. As in Tamatskuri, the last hot springs town we stayed in, a small river wound its way through the center of this town, crisscrossed many times with sturdy stone bridges and lined with small willowy green trees. The roads are narrow and crowded with storefronts, restaurants, and hotels clustered together. The architecture of these buildings is pleasant and traditional.

In a small town just outside Matsue, called Tamatsukuri, we stayed at the lovely Kai Izumo. The Kai Izumo is a high-end ryokan that takes the traditional aspects and design of a ryokan and melds it with a more modern feel.

During our time in Matsue we stayed in the small town of Tamatsukurionsen. It is just one train stop west from the start of Matsue and is a quiet little getaway from the city. Like many small towns, it clings along the banks of a creek with a few side streets springing from along the banks. It’s a quiet little town with very little traffic from either vehicles or pedestrians. Tamatsukurionsen lies within the Izumo region and is known for its hot springs. The waters of the onsen here are known to promote healing and thus, the town is lined with many ryokan.