Kai Nikko
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The Kai Nikko is a high-end modern styled ryokan on the western outskirts of Nikko. The ryokan sits on shore of Lake Chuzenji with many rooms boasting amazing views of the lake and nearby Mount Nantai.
We took the shinkansen and then the charming local train to Nikko. We got a rental car and drove through Nikko then up the famous Irohazaka highway. We arrived at Kai Nikko just after dusk had fallen. The hotel is just across the street from the edge of Lake Chuzenji and commands a gorgeous view of the lake and surrounding mountains. As the hotel staff checked us in, they also served us a small refreshment of fresh yuzu juice, which was tangy and delicious and served in tiny crystal glasses.
On a side note, the Kai resorts have the cutest mascot. It’s this little shiba inu holding an arrow in its mouth. The front desk has a small carving of it and Taylor tried to see if he could buy one but the staff said they didn’t sell any.
The way to our room lay down quiet winding hallways. Once we entered our room, there was an outer room where shoes would be left, then you stepped up onto soft tatami mat flooring. Straight ahead was a room with a sink. Off of that room were the toilet room and shower room. To the left was the main room.
Unlike in other ryokans where we have stayed, this room had permanent beds with real mattresses (usually they are just futons that are put out at night and then put away during the day). Beyond the beds were intricately-carved decorative wooden sliding screen doors that separate the bedroom from a little sitting room with chairs in front of floor-to-ceiling windows that look out over the lake. This was an amazing spot to relax and read, enjoy the view, and take sunset pictures. There were really pretty paper lamps hanging from the wooden ceiling. The room keys were large and ornate, and we were not allowed to take them outside the hotel. Instead, we had to leave them at the front desk whenever we left.
There was also a small package for us in the room with snacks and a set of wooden pieces that we could put together that were similar to the designs on the wooden screen between the bed and the lake viewing room.
As is standard with other with any ryokan, we were also provided with yukatas to wear around the grounds.
Although our room didn’t have an in-room onsen, there were public ones for guests to use in the basement of the main building. The public onsen has a changing room with lockers to store the guests’ belongings. Showers are also provided for guests to use before entering the onsen. There were multiple different onsen that were separated by rooms, so there is plenty of space for many guests. The rooms are entirely indoors since it was in the basement and didn’t offer any windowed views. The rooms were quiet and dimly lit. It was nice and relaxing.
Nightly before dinner there was a performance of a geta dance. Geta are traditional straw sandals with wooden soles which have been crafted in Nikko for over 400 years. The dance was a lot of fun, with guests encouraged to clap and stomp along to the beat.
To get to the dining hall we had to walk through a curved corridor lined with windows that looked out on the rooftop garden, Lake Chuzenji, and Mount Nantai. Inside the hall are sectioned off dining areas for each group to enjoy their meal in privacy. The ceilings in the room are beautifully painted as well.
The kaiseki meals at Kai Nikko were so good, and we actually documented them much better than other ryokans. Our next post will be dedicated entirely to them.
Google Maps Link: Kai Nikko
